CalcBix
Loans & Borrowing

Know the real cost before you borrow.

Most people compare monthly payments. Smart borrowers compare total interest, total repaid, and what happens if rates rise. Get all three before signing anything.

First-time borrowersMortgage buyersBusiness borrowersCar buyersHomeowners refinancing

Which lender offer is actually cheaper over the full term?

How much total interest will I pay on this mortgage?

What is my monthly EMI on a given loan amount and rate?

How does extra monthly repayment shorten the loan term?

What happens to my payment if rates rise 2%?

Is a shorter term with higher payments better than a longer term?

Practical guide

How to compare loans correctly — total cost, not monthly payment

Lenders and dealers know that most borrowers focus on the monthly payment. That is why car dealers talk in monthly amounts and lenders emphasize the low first-year rate. A monthly payment is a poor basis for comparison because it is affected by both the rate AND the term. A 5-year loan at 9% may have a lower monthly payment than a 3-year loan at 4% — but the 5-year loan costs significantly more in total interest.

The correct comparison is: total amount repaid minus the original principal equals total interest paid. Use a loan calculator to get this number for each offer on the table. Add any arrangement fees, valuation fees, or early repayment charges to compare the true cost.

For mortgages specifically: compare the total cost over the fixed-rate period, not just the headline rate. A slightly lower rate with higher fees may cost more over 2 or 5 years. Also model a rate stress test — what would the monthly payment be if rates rose by 2% or 3%? Banks must stress-test applicants; you should stress-test the decision yourself.

Extra repayments have a disproportionate impact in the early years when most of your payment goes to interest. Even a small additional monthly payment, consistently applied, can reduce the total loan term significantly. Use the amortisation calculator to see exactly how this plays out for your specific loan.

Worked example

See it in action

Scenario: Comparing two personal loan offers: £15,000 over 3 years

  1. 1
    Lender A offer: £15,000 at 7.9% APR over 36 months = £469/month, total repaid £16,884, total interest £1,884.
  2. 2
    Lender B offer: £15,000 at 9.9% APR over 48 months = £378/month, total repaid £18,144, total interest £3,144.
  3. 3
    Surface comparison: Lender B looks cheaper at £378/month vs £469/month — a saving of £91/month.
  4. 4
    True cost comparison: Lender B costs £1,260 more in total interest and 12 extra months of payments — that £91/month saving is expensive.
  5. 5
    Decision: If affordability is not the constraint, Lender A is clearly better. If £469/month is genuinely unaffordable, factor the £1,260 extra cost into the decision explicitly.

Result

The lower monthly payment from Lender B costs £1,260 more in total interest over the life of the loan. The calculator makes this trade-off visible so the decision is explicit rather than accidental.

Watch out

Common mistakes to avoid

Comparing loans by monthly payment alone — extend the term and any rate looks affordable.

Ignoring arrangement fees, broker fees, and valuation costs that inflate the true cost.

Not stress-testing a variable or tracker rate mortgage for rate rises of 2–3%.

Overstating how much extra you will repay each month — model a realistic figure, not an aspirational one.

Refinancing too early and triggering early repayment charges that wipe out any rate saving.

Ignoring the total years of commitment — a 25-year mortgage is a different type of commitment to a 5-year one, even at the same monthly payment.

Before you decide

Decision checklist

Have you compared total interest paid (not just monthly payment) across all offers?

Have you added arrangement fees, broker fees, and any exit fees to the comparison?

For variable rate mortgages: have you stress-tested payments at a 2% higher rate?

Have you checked the early repayment charge terms if your circumstances might change?

Have you modelled the impact of making small extra monthly repayments?

For business loans: have you verified affordability against projected cash flow, not just revenue?

Frequently asked questions

What is EMI and how is it calculated?

EMI (Equated Monthly Instalment) is the fixed monthly payment on a loan. It is calculated using the formula: EMI = P × r × (1+r)^n / ((1+r)^n - 1), where P is the principal, r is the monthly interest rate, and n is the number of months. The CalcBix loan EMI calculator applies this formula and shows total interest alongside the monthly figure.

Why does the early part of a mortgage payment go mostly to interest?

Amortisation schedules are structured so that each payment covers the interest owed on the remaining balance first. In early years the balance is high, so interest is high and principal repayment is low. As the balance reduces, a larger share of each payment goes to principal. This is why extra early payments are so effective — they reduce the principal faster, which reduces future interest.

Should I get a fixed or variable rate mortgage?

Fixed rates give payment certainty for the fixed period. Variable rates may start lower but change with the base rate. If rates fall, variable wins; if they rise, fixed wins. The decision depends on your risk tolerance, how long you plan to stay in the property, and whether you can absorb payment rises. Model both scenarios with a stress-test before deciding.

Is it worth making overpayments on a mortgage?

Usually yes — but check your overpayment allowance first. Most lenders allow 10% of the outstanding balance per year without penalty. Overpayments reduce the principal faster, which reduces total interest paid and shortens the term. Use the amortisation calculator to see exactly how much your specific overpayment amount saves.